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Tuesday, 13 September 2022 / Published in Blog

Not Your Mama’s Vinho Verde

By Ophelia Santos

Quaffable, easy-drinking and chuggable: these are the words widely used by wine drinkers to describe the wines of summer. Typically included within this category are the wines of Vinho Verde. To most consumers, this Portuguese specialty is white, low in alcohol, with refreshing acidity and perhaps even a slight spritz. But this is just the tip of the proverbial iceberg.

Vinho Verde tasting information

Yes, Vinho Verde produces wines as described above, but this is only the starting point for a surprising array of styles. A long tradition of wine production dating back to ancient Rome has allowed for the preservation and propagation of numerous grape varietals, many of them indigenous to the region. Geography and topography support ampelographic diversity in an area spanning almost 40,000 acres of vineyard, bound by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and extending inland into the more mountainous areas that sit just across the border from Spain. Nature herself completes the delimitation of the area, with the Minho River to the north and the famous Douro to the South.

Vinho Verde region
Vinho Verde region in Portugal.

From the standpoint of gastronomy, there is much to discover: Vinho Verde produces wines with personalities as varied as the colors in a kaleidoscope. These include:

Aromatic Whites

The headliner for this style of wine is the perfumed Loureiro grape, a variety that takes its name from the Portuguese word for “laurel”. Aptly named, Loureiro contributes beguiling aromas of freesia, jasmine, acacia and orange blossom to blends.

Complex, Well-structured Whites

The inland subregions of Vinho Verde provide the perfect home for a grape whose name translates to “inside-out” or “upside-down”. Notwithstanding its curious name, Avesso produces well-structured, full-bodied wines with complex aromatics – quite the antithesis of the classical Vinho Verde profile.

Also, no discussion of this category would be complete without highlighting the Alvarinho (known as Albariño in Spain) grape, prized for its fruity minerality and  high natural acidity. The subregion of Monção e Melgaço is the birthplace of this now-famous varietal, and outstanding, cellar-worthy examples of 100% Alvarinho wines are not difficult to find.

Fruity, Structured Reds

Red Vinho Verde contradicts the stereotype of its regional siblings by being deeply colored, boldly-flavored and richly fruity. Made from a smattering of red varietals that most consumers have likely never heard of – including Vinhão, Padeiro, Espadeiro and others – these are nonetheless worthy of attention. That is, if one can find them. A minuscule quantity of red Vinho Verde is produced and most of it is consumed in Portugal.

Sparkling Vinho Verde

Created only in 1999, DO Sparkling Vinho Verde is a recent phenomenon. Examples can be fruit-driven or complex, not to mention available at a pocket-friendly price-point. Currently a rarity in local wine stores, but well worth a search!

These wines are always good candidates for specialities to have in an Enomatic wine dispenser such as Unica 8-Bottle.

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